by Jennifer Morrisey
Fair week buzzes with a magical kind of excitement all its own. The scent of fried dough and fresh taffy floats through the air. Kids shriek on the tilt-a-whirl while brightly colored lights dance against the evening sky. It’s easy to get swept up in the excitement of the midway, the crowds, the music, the games and the funnel cakes.
But it’s in the quieter corners of the fairgrounds in the timeworn exhibit halls where the true heart of the fair beats. The heart of the Wayne County Fair in Palmyra is Floral Hall, built in 1856 and still home to the contests that harken back to simpler times: homemade pies and pickles, canned peaches and artfully braided loaves, each carefully made and offered up for evaluation. Among these competitions, few inspire as much anticipation or as many entries as a pie contest.
Modeled after old-fashioned bake-offs dating back to the late 1700s and early 1800s, the Wayne County Fair’s annual pie contest has become a cherished tradition, now running strong for 34 years.
Held in the early evening during fair week on the front porch of Floral Hall, pies are lined up on wooden shelves, flaky crusts and fruit fillings peeking out beneath lattice tops.
Participants and fairgoers sit shoulder to shoulder and watch on benches in the lawn as judges rate the pies on taste, appearance, crust and filling. There are no names on the pies, only numbers, adding a layer of suspense and good-hearted tension in the crowd. It’s common to see bakers perched on the edge of their bench, nervously trying to make out the judges’ expressions as their pie is sampled.
In true fair fashion, once the ribbons have been handed out and photos snapped, the pies don’t go to waste. They’re auctioned off one by one, with bidders eager for a taste of the best pie in the county. Sometimes the loudest applause goes to the pie with the most heart, not just the highest score. It’s part contest, part community celebration.
For many, the pie contest is a fun challenge or a way to feel connected to the fair. But for bakers like Cairy Place, it’s rooted in tradition, family and community.
Place has entered the Wayne County Fair pie contest since 2009 and has placed nine times. The fair has always been more than just a summer event for her. “The Wayne County Fair holds a special place in my heart,” she said. She grew up showing cattle through 4-H and even met her husband at the fair.
She entered her first pie the same year she got married. The newlyweds had planned to show some of their cow herd, but the animals weren’t quite ready. Not wanting to miss out on the fair, Place quickly decided to enter the pie contest instead. Her fresh raspberry pie, made with berries from her own farm, took home a first place ribbon.
But this ribbon wasn’t just a win; it was the beginning of a new tradition. “There’s a real sense of pride in offering something made with your own hands,” Place said. “I was hooked.”
Place’s enthusiasm for the fair seems almost contagious; her mother has participated and placed, and her young daughter is eager to enter her own pie soon.
Place’s family is not alone in feeling this way. According to contest organizer Pam Ferranti, the pie competition has become one of the fair’s most beloved traditions.
The contest maintains an old-fashioned neighborly charm, but make no mistake, the competition is fierce. The number of entries averages 35 to 40 annually, sometimes climbing as high as 50. In 2024, the point difference between the first- and sixth-place pies was just two points. With so many strong entries, even placing at all is a real accomplishment – I know because I took home the sixth-place ribbon. My maple bourbon peach pecan pie held its own, and I’ve included the recipe here if you are interested in trying it out. It’s rich, a little boozy, and tastes like late summer.
Some families participate as friendly rivals, while others share tried and true family recipes with the next generation. “We have had winners under 10 years old,” Ferranti shared. “We’ve also had multiple generations from the same family compete against one another. It’s enjoyable but also about sharing stories and baking skills. That’s how traditions remain alive.”
Sometimes, those stories are unforgettable. Ferranti recalls the late Ralph Bliek from Williamson, “He won the pie contest two years in a row and was the only man ever to win it. That back-to-back win was impressive.” She also remembers when a single pie sold for more than $1,000, with the sale proceeds going to preserve the historic Floral Hall. These competitions mean just as much to the community as they do to the bakers.
Ferranti encourages first-timers to “Go for it. Whether you take home a ribbon or not, it’s a rewarding experience. You’ll meet new people, create lasting memories and grow as a baker.”
“Even if you don’t win, entering improves your baking skills, fosters creativity, and connects you with others who share your love of baking,” Place agreed.
Long after the rides pack up and move on, and the food stalls close down, the memories and stories linger: of carefully crimped crusts, friendly competition amongst neighbors and the quiet joy of knowing your pie sat among the best in the county.
Tips for Entering a Baking Contest
If you’ve ever wandered through the baked goods display at your county fair and thought, “Maybe next year,” let this be the year you finally roll up your sleeves, tie on an apron and enter! Whether everyone raves about your pies at family gatherings, or you simply love the challenge of perfecting a recipe, baking competitions are a fun way to share your skills.
Here are my tips for first-time county fair bakers. Read the rules (twice). Each fair has its own set of guidelines, and they are usually very specific. Double-check the fine print so you don’t get disqualified over a small technicality. If pre-registration is available, take advantage of it.
Practice before the big day. There’s no substitute for hands-on practice. Make your contest recipe at least once or twice beforehand so you can work out any quirks. Familiarity with your recipe gives you a huge advantage. By contest day, your dish will feel less like a gamble and more like second nature.
Keep it classic. Judges seem to love nostalgic flavors that are done exceptionally well. Classic flavors may seem simple, but when made with attention to detail, these tried-and-true recipes tap into memories and deliver real impact.
Use good ingredients. High quality butter, fresh fruit and real vanilla extract can make a basic recipe shine. Judges usually only get one bite, and in that bite, every flavor and texture counts. If you’re going to the trouble of entering a contest, it’s worth investing in the best ingredients you can reasonably afford.
Timing matters. Especially with pies, timing can make or break your entry. You want the filling to be fully set and cooled – not straight from the oven, but definitely not day-old. Practice helps you learn exactly how long your pie needs to rest to be at its best when it hits the judging table.
Know your baking equipment (and don’t switch it up last-minute). Some ovens run hot, some run cool. Use an oven thermometer if you’re unsure. Don’t try baking in a different kitchen the day of the contest, as it could throw everything off. The same goes for your bakeware. Different materials conduct heat differently, and changing pans at the last minute can affect browning, texture and doneness. Familiar tools lead to more consistent results.
Have fun and enter again. Whether you go home with a ribbon or not, just entering is an achievement. You’ve shared a piece of your kitchen, your story and your time and effort. Take time to enjoy the experience: peek at the competition, chat with fellow bakers and soak in the fair atmosphere. You might pick up tips, inspiration, or even make a few new friends. Every year you enter, you learn a little more about the process and about your own strengths. It’s likely that “maybe next year” attitude might just turn into a yearly tradition.
